Bouldering at Lincoln Woods

Lincoln Woods State Park is a free bouldering area in Lincoln, Rhode Island. RI DEM's own history describes the park as a rugged, hilly, tree-lined upland strewn with giant boulders, and DEM's photo gallery for the park includes a group of people climbing. Climbing is legal here: Rhode Island's state park rules permit rock climbing, which they define to include bouldering, everywhere except Fort Wetherill and Jamestown. The catch is paperwork: every climber must sign a release and waiver of liability before climbing, and groups need a Special Use Permit. Entry and parking are free, and the park closes at sunset.

Where the Boulders Are

The boulders are scattered through the woods that cover most of the park, especially the hilly ground north of Olney Pond and the loop road. DEM's map does not mark climbing areas or problems, but it names the high points climbers use as landmarks, among them Tablerock Hill, Druid Circle, Pulpit Rock and Chimney Grove. Park in the free lots along the Les Pawson Loop and walk in on the trails. The park map shows the roads and trails.

Rules That Apply to Climbers

Rhode Island's general state park regulation (250-RICR-100-00-7, section 7.16) has a rock-climbing rule, and it defines rock climbing to include scrambling and bouldering:

• Sign the waiver first. Any individual who climbs must sign a release and an approved waiver of liability form before starting. Ask the Lincoln Woods park office, (401) 723-7892, how to get and file the form.
• Sunrise to sunset only. No one may be in a state park after dark without written permission.
• Groups need a permit. Organised groups of any size must get a Special Use Permit, and every member must sign the waiver. A group sponsored by a business must show $1,000,000 of liability insurance naming the State of Rhode Island.
• Leave the rock as you found it. State rules forbid damaging or removing natural features, trees and plants.
• No new trails. You may not cut or mark new trails without written permission, so use existing paths between boulders.
• Dogs on a leash of six feet or less, under control.
• Carry in, carry out. Take your tape, chalk bags and trash home.

Which Trail Zone You Are In

Many boulders sit along the trails, and DEM splits those trails in two. West of Quinsnicket Road is Zone A, for horses only; east of it is Zone B, open to hikers and mountain bikers. If a boulder sits beside a bridle trail, give horses plenty of room and never leave a crash pad on the trail. See hiking and horseback riding.

The Local Climbing Community

The Ocean State Climbers' Alliance (OSCA) is a registered 501(c)(3) nonprofit dedicated to climbing access, education and stewardship in Rhode Island. It runs the RI Ripper, a community bouldering competition at Lincoln Woods, and has led guided tours of the boulders. If you are new to the area, an OSCA event is a good way to learn where things are and how locals look after them.

Guidebooks and Problem Names

Problem names, grades and approaches are covered by climbing guidebooks and online route databases, and this site does not repeat them. A printed guide and a crash pad are the two things to bring.

Leave No Trace on the Rock

• Brush off tick marks and excess chalk when you finish a problem.
• Keep pads off the plants at the base of the boulders.
• Keep noise down near picnic sites; this is a family park.
• Let the rock dry after rain before you climb.

Rock Climbing Elsewhere in Rhode Island

Lincoln Woods is not the state's only climbing. If you are planning a Rhode Island climbing trip, check OSCA for current access news before visiting any area, public or private.

Before You Go

Parking is free; see parking and directions. Restrooms are open May 1 to October 31. In summer, combine a session with a swim at the beach, where lifeguards are on duty 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.